We spend about 1/3rd of our life in bed. Odd, then, how little thought most of us give to what we're lying on.
Silk bedsheets are having a moment in India, and honestly, it's well deserved. But walk into any marketplace and you'll see "silk" on a hundred listings, and maybe five of them are the real thing. The rest? Polyester that's been dressed up nicely. So before you spend a rupee, here's what's worth knowing.
Start with the fibre
Mulberry silk is the one you want. It comes from silkworms that eat only mulberry leaves, which gives a long, fine, even thread. That's where the cool, slippery, almost weightless feel comes from.
Other silks exist, and they're lovely in their own way. Tussar is golden and a bit textured. Eri is soft and matte. Muga, from Assam, is rare and glows like honey. They're great for throws, cushion covers, a bed runner. For sheets you'll lie on every night, though, mulberry wins.
Then there's the stuff to watch out for: "art silk", "silky", "silk satin". Satin is just a weave, by the way. It can be made of silk or polyester, and plenty of sellers count on you not knowing that. If the label doesn't say 100% mulberry silk, assume it isn't.
Forget thread count, check momme
Cotton people talk thread count. Silk people talk momme (you'll see it written as mm), which is simply a measure of how heavy and dense the fabric is.
Anything under 19 momme is too thin for bedding. Fine for a scarf, not for a sheet that gets slept on, tossed around and washed. At 19, you get soft and everyday luxury. At 22, the sweet spot for most people, the silk feels richer, lasts longer and drapes beautifully. Go up to 25 or beyond and it gets heavier and pricier, which some people love.
Here's a simple test. Ask the seller what the momme is. If they dodge the question, you have your answer.
Grade 6A, and why it matters
Silk gets graded, and 6A is the top. It means the fibres are long, smooth and consistent, with no weak patches that fray or snag after a few washes. Be a little suspicious of vague phrases like "premium quality" or "luxury silk". They sound good and say nothing.
A few other things worth looking for: a Silk Mark label, which points to pure natural silk, and OEKO-TEX Standard 100, which means the fabric's been tested for harmful substances. A proper GST invoice helps too. So does a brand with an actual name and an actual way to reach them.
Where do you begin?
You don't need to buy a whole set on day one. Plenty of women don't.
The pillowcase is the usual starting point, and it makes sense. Your face and hair are pressed against it for hours, so less friction means fewer tangles, less frizz, fewer creases on your cheek in the morning. It's the smallest spend with the most noticeable change.
Next comes the fitted sheet, since that's what you actually lie on. After that, the full set: fitted, flat and pillowcases, all in the same silk. A duvet cover looks gorgeous too, though silk is slippery, so look for ties or a snug fit or it'll wander around in the night.
Think about how you sleep
Silk regulates temperature on its own. It feels cool when it's warm out and gently cosy when it isn't, so it works across most of the year in India. Polyester satin does the opposite. It holds heat, and you wake up sticky and annoyed.
If you live somewhere very humid, keep the room ventilated, because silk takes its time to dry. If you are a restless sleeper, then go for deep-pocket fitted sheets with strong elastic. And if your skin is sensitive, silk's smooth natural surface tends to be kind to it.
How to spot fake silk
Price first. Real 22 momme mulberry silk is an investment. If a "pure silk" set costs about the same as a cotton one, it isn't pure silk, and no clever listing changes that.
Then touch. Real silk warms up in your hand, slowly, to match your body. Polyester stays cold and slick. Look at the shine too. Silk has a soft lustre that shifts colour as the light moves, while fake silk has a flat, even gloss that looks the same from every angle.
If you really want to be sure, try the burn test, but only on a loose thread, and carefully. Silk burns slowly, smells like burnt hair and crumbles to ash. Polyester melts, smells chemical and leaves a hard little bead.
And ask questions. A brand that's proud of its silk will tell you the momme, the grade and where the fibre comes from, without fuss.
Where to buy
Specialist silk brands are usually your best bet. They're open about what goes into the fabric, and they have a reputation to protect. Online marketplaces like Esme Luxury are convenient. But read recent reviews, look for customer photos and check the return policy before you click buy.
Whatever you pick, make sure there is a clear return, refund or guarantee policy. Silk is something you want to feel, and a brand that believes in its product won't mind you trying it.
A quick checklist before you buy
- 100% mulberry silk, no blends
- 22 momme (anywhere from 19 to 25 is fair game)
- Grade 6A
- Silk Mark and/or OEKO-TEX certified
- A price that makes sense for real silk
- A clear return, refund and guarantee policy
- A GST invoice, and a brand you can actually contact
- Care instructions you're happy to follow
Ready to make the silky switch? Discover your silk love at Esmé Luxury.